Silverside Outfitters and Guide Service - Northwest Michigan's Finest Flyfishing

Fly-of-the-Week

1/24/05 NEW-PoxyBack Stone-small black stoneflies are the first important hatch of the season and are active Feb.-May. You will see the little stones crawling across the snow at streamside and adults flying on the warmer sunny afternoons. They are rather small but hatch in great enough numbers that both trout and steelhead will feed on them. The PoxyBack Stone has quite a few steps but isn't that difficult once you tie up a few.

Hook: Daiichi 1530 #8-12

Thread: 6/0 Black

Tails: Goose biots

Dubbing: black Awesome 'Possum(Wapsi)

Abdomen: Turkey biot

Wingcase: Pheasant tail w/ Dave's Flexament or Flex-Seal. Optional-Drop of Epoxy or Loon Hard Head.

Hackle: black Hen saddle

Thorax: black dubbing

Step 1: Start thread at hook eye and wind back to hook bend. A thread base will keep the completed fly from rolling on the hook shank or sliding back into the bend.

Step 2: Dub small ball of dubbing at bend of hook. This will keep biots separated.

Top: Turkey biot. Bottom: Goose biot. Use Goose biots for tails and Turkey for the abdomen. Turkey biots are longer and more delicate than goose biots. Soaking Turkey biots briefly in a damp paper towel before tying will make them easier to wrap and less likely to tear.

Step 3: Tie down 1 goose biot on each side of dubbing ball. Biot's have a natural curve, and you want the biot's to curve away from each other for the tail.

Step 4: Tie in 1 Turkey biot as shown.

Step 5: Dub a tapered under-body half way up the hook shank.

Step 6: Wrap biot forward over under-body as shown. Hackle pliers will make this easier.

Step 7: Tie in a section of Pheasant tail fibers that has been treated w/ Flex-Seal or Dave's Flexament.

Prepare a Hen saddle as shown.

Step 8: Tie in Hen saddle as shown with feather curving up.

Step 9: Dub a thorax

Step 10: Pull Hen saddle forward and tie off as shown.

Step 11: Pull Pheasant tail forward and tie off on top of Hen saddle.

Step 12(optional): Tie in 2 more Goose biot's at hook eye as shown(curving away from each other).

Step 13: Dub a small head over thread wraps at eye.

Loon Hard Head

Step 14(optional): Use a toothpick and apply a small drop of epoxy or Hard Head on top of Pheasant tail wingcase. Hard Head is easiest and does not require any mixing.

Finished PoxyBack Stone-side view.

Finished PoxyBack Stone-top view.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Pheasant tail(P.T.) nymph- a great low water nymph for steelhead in the fall and spring. Can be tied in natural, black, and olive.

Hook: Daiichi 1530 #8, 10

Thread: Uni 8/0

Tail: pheasant tail

Body: pheasant tail

Rib: fine copper wire

Wing case: pheasant tail

Thorax: peacock herl

Legs: pheasant tail

Step 1: Start thread just behind hook eye.

Step 2: Tie in several pheasant tail fibers for the tail.

Step 3: Tie in copper wire for the rib.

Step 4: Tie in a few p.t. fibers for the body.

Step 5: Wind p.t. fibers forward. Wind rib forward.

Step 6: Tie in a clump of p.t. fibers for the wingcase.

Step 7: Tie in several peacock herls by the base.

Step 8: Wind peacock forward, leaving room for legs and head.

Step 9: Tie in a few p.t. fibers on one side of thorax as shown.

Step10: Tie in a few p.t. fibers on other side of thorax as shown. Trim excess.

Step 11: Pull wingcase forward and tie down. Finished P.T.-side view

Finished P.T.-top view

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Simple Spey-a fast, easy to tie spey fly that will catch salmon & steelhead. Can be tied in a variety of colors but this combination has always worked best for me.

Hook: Daiichi 1530 #4

Thread: black Monocord

Tag: chartreuse wool yarn

Body: peacock-Micro Ice Chenille

Hackle: black Schlapen

Step 1: Wrap thread back to hook point.

Step 2: Tie in wool yarn at hook point, and finish at hook bend.

Step 3: Starting at hook bend wrap yarn forward 8 turns or to hook point.

Step 4: Tie in micro chenille.

Step 5: Tie in Schlapen.

Step 6: Wind micro chenille forward to hook eye, leaving room for head.

Step 7: Wind Schlapen forward about 4 turns, taking a extra turn at fly head. Finished Simple Spey.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

7/5 Mattress Thrasher

Mattress Thrasher-a easy to tie terrestrial pattern that catches trout & panfish. Can change leg & body colors to suit. Try white, black, and red legs.

Hook: Daiichi 1182 #8

Thread: black 6/0 Uni

Body: black Spirit River Fine & Dry

Wing: deer hair

Legs: pumpkinseed rubber

Thorax: sulfur yellow S.R. Fine & Dry

Hackle: grizzly Hoffman

Step 1: Start at middle of hook shank.

Step 2: Dub a level body starting at hook bend and finishing 1/2 way to hook eye.

Step 3: Add a full wing of deer hair with tips extending back past bend as shown.

Step 4: Tie in rubber legs with a couple loose wraps of thread.

Step 5: Pull rubber legs to sides of fly and secure. Trim legs to desired length.

Step 6: Prepare a grizzly hackle as pictured.

Step 7: Tie in hackle just above rubber legs.

Step 8: Dub forward to hook eye.

Step 9: Wind hackle forward to eye and tie off. Trim hackle from underside of fly. Finished Mattress Thrasher- Side

Finished Mattress Thrasher-Top

Finished Mattress Thrasher-Bottom

------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Parachute Hex.-the Hex. hatch has started on the Pere Marquette! The Hex.(Hexagenia Limbata) is the largest mayfly in Michigan and will bring some of the river's largest trout to the surface. This fly will work for a dun or spinner pattern and floats well.

Hook: #6 4XL

Thread: Brown Uni 6/0

Tail: Moose mane

Body: Deer hair-yellow on bottom and brown/natural on top.

Hackle: Grizzly, Brown, or both.

Parachute: Hi-Vis.(also called Sparkle yarn, Zelon, Antron).

Dubbing(optional): Antron-Hexagenia

Step1: Tie in several moose mane fiber's for the tail.

Step 2: Starting ahead of the hook point tie in a clump of yellow deer hair.

Step 3: Pull hair forward toward hook eye and tie down.

Step 4: Trim extra hair from front of fly.

Step 5: Carefully turn deer hair from top of hook until it is on bottom of hook. You can turn hook upside down in vice and tie yellow hair on bottom of hook to start but the hook point will get in the way.

Step 6: Tie in natural or brown deer hair on top of hook shank.

Step 7: While holding clump of hair on top of hook, wind thread back to bend of hook. Use evenly spaced wraps. If you don't hold hair on top of hook as you wind thread back, the hair will roll around hook and become a mess. Take several wraps of thread at hook bend , then wind thread back toward hook eye, criss crossing previous wraps as you go forward.

Step 8: Using figure eight wraps, tie in a clump of Hi-Vis. as shown. Antron, Sparkle Wing, or any similar material can be used for post.

Step 9: Bring up Hi-Vis and wrap around base as shown.

Step10: Tie in 2 hackles at base of post. I add Antron dubbing at base of post.

Step 11: Wrap hackle around post, using all the hackle you can to help float the fly.

Step 12: Tie off hackle if front of post.

Step 13: Trim Hi-Vis. Finished Parachute Hex.-Side view.

Finished Parachute Hex.-Top view.

Parachute Hex. from below.

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Deer Hair Spinner- an easy to tie, effective spinner pattern to imitate any of the larger mayfly spinners(gray & brown drakes, Hex.'s, etc.) Can be trimmed streamside as needed.

Hook: Daiichi 1182 #10, #12

Thread: Uni 8/0

Tail: Moose

Body: Deer hair

Wing/Hackle: Whiting dun, grizzly, etc.

Note: Adding Organza to wing will make this an even more effective pattern for heavily fished waters.

Step 1: Tie in 2 moose fibers for the tail.

Step 2: Prepare a sparse clump of deer hair for body. Use a hair stacker to even tips of hair.

Step 3: Starting just behind hook eye secure deer hair to hook. Wind thread back towards bend using evenly spaced wraps of thread. Make several wraps of thread at tail and wind thread back forward to starting point. Trim off extra deer hair.

Step 4 Tie in hackle. Note: I like to use 2 different colors and sizes of hackle. First hackle is larger and gives the wing the proper silhouette. Second hackle is smaller and helps to float the fly.

Step 5: Tie in 2nd hackle.

Step 6: Wind 1st hackle evenly forward towards hook eye, leaving a gap between each turn.

Step 7: Wind 2nd hackle evenly forward thru 1st hackle filling in the gaps.

Step 8: Whip finish. Finished deer hair spinner-side view. Has been trimmed on bottom only. Fly will be easier to see on the water & will float better if only trimmed on bottom. Can trim hackle from top of fly streamside if needed.

Deer hair spinner tied w/ grey deer hair/dun hackle & trimmed on top and bottom of fly.

ORGANZA

Organza, Bridal veil- can be found at most craft stores. Note the purplish/blue color. Organza added to the wing of any spinner pattern will make it more realistic and effective. Natural mayfly spinner wings have the same purplish/ blue color as Organza.

Step 1: Tie in several strands of Organza using figure 8 wraps. Leaving the Organza long until after the fly is complete will make winding the hackle forward much easier.

Step 2: Wind 1st hackle forward

Step 3 Wind 2nd hackle forward thru 1st, whip finish. Trim Organza same length as hackle wing. Finished Deer hair spinner w/ Organza wing-top view.

Deer hair Organza spinner

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Rabbit-strip Leech- a effective, easy to tie streamer. Can be tied in any color or size depending on conditions. White is a good early season color, fish black after a good rain, olive on sunny days, and yellow later in the season or when the other colors aren't working. Fish small sizes to imitate salmon fry and larger sizes to suggest a big meal. A trout will strike a fly almost as big as they are long.

Most guides I know use a Tenny/Rio 200gr. or 300gr. sink tip for streamer fishing. Not only does it help to get your fly down, but makes it easy to roll cast a heavy fly. Keep some of the sinking portion of the line within the rod and you will be able to roll cast far enough to cover the water on most small to mid. sized streams. On larger rivers, use a roll pickup to get the fly up near the surface, make 1 false cast, and shoot the rest of the line for greater distance. Vary the retrieve until you find what the fish want. Slower strips when the water is cold, and faster strips once it warms up. Foot long strips at a medium speed is a good place to start. You can not strip your fly too fast, a trout will catch your fly if it wants it bad enough. If a fish is chasing your fly DO NOT STOP your retrieve. Some fish will chase your fly all the way back, and smash it at boat side or your feet. Change color and retrieve if you have a chase but no strike.

Use barbless hooks if you intend to catch & release. Barbless hooks are much easier to remove and cause less damage to a fish, yourself, or guide once hooked. Good Luck!

Hook: Any Daiichi(smash down barb before fishing!)

Thread: white

Tail(optional): pearl Flashabou

Rib: gold wire

Body: pearl braid

Rabbit strip: white

Collar: soft hackle/Schlappen

Eyes: silver bead chain

Step 1: Tie in tail of pearl Flashabou

Step 2: Tie in rib and body material.

Step 3: Wrap body material forward, leaving room for eyes, etc.

Step 4: Tie in rabbit strip at head of fly.

Step 5: Wrap rib forward thru rabbit strip. Any rabbit fibers caught under rib can be picked out after fly is finished.

Step 6: Tie in collar hackle

Step 7: Wrap collar forward and use figure eight wraps to secure eyes.

Step 8: Whip finished and head cement.

Finished Rabbit-strip leech-side view

Finished Rabbit-strip leech-bottom view

A version of the rabbit-strip leech. Black with electric blue Flashabou: good for steelhead and high water trout.

Steelhead rabbit-strip leech-side view.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Clown Egg Fly(can be a great high water fly when tied up to a quarter in diameter).

The clown egg fly has been my most productive egg pattern since October. The Clown egg has 4 colors of Glo-Bug yarn(Steelhead Orange, Chartreuse, Cherise, and White) Have tried many other color combinations, but none work as well as this one. I tie quarter sized Clowns for high water and dime sized Clowns for lower water.

Step 1: Start with standard Glo-Bug yarn and divide a 1 1/2" piece of yarn, into third's. Do this for each of the 4 colors, setting them up as pictured. It is fastest to divide enough yarn for a dozen or more flies before you start tying.

Step2: Lay yarn across the top of hook and figure eight into position.

Step 3: Pull yarn back and whip finish. To trim egg pull up on yarn and trim across top. Trim closer to hook shank for smaller egg and further from shank for larger egg.

Step 4: The finished Clown Egg. Use fingers to fluff egg if not completely round.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

RABBIT STRIP HEX. NYMPH

Hook: Daiichi 1530 #8

Thread: Uni 6/0 Tan

Tail: Rabbit Strip

Back: Pearl Flashabou/Peacock herl/filoplume

Body: Squirrel dubbing, color to match rabbit strip

Collar: Partridge

Eyes: black bead chain

Step1: Wrap rabbit strip back to hook bend.

Step 2: Tie in a few strands pearl Flashabou, several strands peacock herl, and one filoplume for back.

Step 3: Dub body forward leaving room for collar and eyes.

Step 4: Wrap collar. Use figure eight wraps to secure eyes.

Step5: Rabbit strip Hex.-Side view. Bring filoplume, peacock herl, and Flashabou forward and tie off in front of and behind eyes.

Rabbit strip Hex.-Top view.

You can trim rabbit strip along back to give your Hex. nymph gills, if desired.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

KRYSTAL EGG

A great fly for sunny days and stained water. Can use other colors of Estaz, but peach is my most productive. Can use any color of Glo-Bug yarn for wing.

Hook: Daiichi 1530 #10

Thread: Mono

Tail: pearl Krystal Flash

Body: peach Estaz

Wing: Glo-bug yarn

Step 1: Wrap thread back just a little past hook point. Wrap forward to middle on hook shank and tie in 1 piece of Krystal Flash. (Note: I use mono thread for this fly, but you can use any thread you wish. The mono is slippery, and you have to make more wraps compared to other threads.)

Step 2: Fold Krystal Flash back and tie down. Trim to desired length.

Step 3: Tie in Estaz. Start back from hook eye and finish around middle of hook.

Step 4: Wrap Estaz forward 4 turns.

Step 5: Tie in sparse piece of Glo-Bug yarn for wing. Can use any color you wish. Chatreuse, Egg, Oregon cheese, etc. will all work great.

Step 6: Divide yarn over hook eye, fold back, and tie along sides of fly.

Step 7: Trim wing. Whip finish and cement. Finished Krystal egg-Side view.

Finished Krystal egg-Top view.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

STEELHEAD BUGGER

Hook: Daiichi 1530 #4

Thread: Black

Tail: black woolly bugger marabou

Rib: copper wire

Body: peacock herl

Hackle: brown or ginger saddle

Step 1: Wrap thread back to bend of hook, then back to hook eye.

Step 2: Tie in marabou for tail. Start just behind eye and make a level underbody. Tail should be a little longer than the hook shank.

Step 3: Tie in copper wire and 4 strands of peacock herl. Wrap peacock herl forward and tie off. Note: If herl is not long enough, wrap forward as far as possible and tie off. Tie in 4 more strands of herl and continue wrapping forward to eye. The more strands of peacock herl used for the body, the thicker the fly will be.

Step 4: Tie in one saddle hackle by base, at hook eye.

Step 5: Wrap hackle back towards hook bend, making a couple of extra wraps just behind hook eye to start. While holding hackle, wrap copper wire forward to hook eye and tie off. Trim wire and hackle. The copper wire will help make a more durable fly.

Step 6: Whip finish and cement. Finished Steelhead Bugger.

Note: You may add Krystal flash to tail and use different colors of peacock herl and wire for something different with a little sparkle.